• By: NP Traveller
• May 09, 2024
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Kheerganga: A Complete Guide to the Himachal’s Trekking Paradise

Author: Samiksha Khanduri

On our trek in Himachal Pradesh, we made a plan for August as the air is still crisp, with less rain showers & more chances to go for unplanned exploration. With backpacks slung over our shoulders, we started our journey from Chandigarh to make our first & only planned stop in Kasol, known as “Mini Israel.” We stayed at The Hosteller in Kasol, exploring its local vicinity across the Parvati river that gushes through the township. Our first stop in Kasol helped us acclimatise to the altitude.

The next day we boarded a bus to Barsheni, which was available after walking almost 2 Kms across the bustling taxi stand. We were dropped off at the Tosh valley bus stand, from where we began on foot to Kulga – Pulga village route ,right after the hydro dam. A little further from the dam is a makeshift bridge on the river which helped us get across to the Kheerganga trail. We walked along the moderate climb with a couple of boulders & a paved path to finally reach our first stop, the lovely village of Nakhthan with a ” Blue House,” which caught our attention. We wanted to make a stop in this village which seemed to have a life of its own. After negotiating with the lady of the house, who agreed to let us stay at Rs.800 per person/ per night., our host lady prepared a delicious local meal of dal & rice for lunch, after which we explored the locales of the village. We spent the afternoon & evening on a chair by the tiniest dhaba in the village from where we were watching the passer-bys to Kheerganga. At night the silhouettes of the mountains around & the moon overhead, made for a wonderful visual lullaby to sleep in the home stay.

The next morning, we enjoyed a steaming cup of tea & embarked on the much-anticipated trek to Kheerganga. The journey went through ascends & descends from Nakhthan walking through lush forests, boulders & narrow streams to cross at an ascend, finally leading to the Kheerganga view of an expansive village in itself. The top of Kheerganga has splendid Himalayan views & offers no less than a mall like option for dhabas, accommodation & snacks. But we left all the bustle behind to perch ourselves on the top of the mountain at a campsite run by a lady from Nakhthan, who has married an Australian skier based out of Nagar in Manali. We decided to explore the top of Kheerganga which is also famous for a sulphur hot spring, known for its healing properties. The hot steam of the therapeutic waters, are a bliss after an arduous trek to the top. 

We stayed that night in ten alpine tents at the Kheerganga campsite at the top & plugged into the vibrancy of lights below & the stars overhead.  We were smitten by how at that an altitude the entire local community had made provisions for one & all. Maybe that’s the thing about Himachali hospitality! 

 The following day we began leisurely after a breakfast with a sunny Mountain View & descended our way down to Nakthan, to pick our rucksacks from the kind host, who had agreed to keep them safe for the night. As we descended in about 2 hours from Nakhthan we took one last vibe of the Tosh valley by staying at the Kalga village. Nestled amidst the apple orchard , we were greeted by the laughter of fellow travellers & their anecdotes as they wove a tapestry of shared joy and stories. The final night for us was filled with music & a hearty dinner.

The next morning we left from Kalga for the Barsheni bus stand & took a pit stop in Kasol’s Moon Dance Café, reflecting on our first trek in Himachal Pradesh. We simply indulged in food & shopping for a few last minute Himachali clothes, which was just enough after the adventure to take a night bus to Chandigarh.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION:

1. How to Reach

  Flights: (Delhi to Bhuntar Airport (KUU) near Kullu)

• Airlines: IndiGo, Air India, Vistara
• Layovers: Direct flights are available. If not, layovers are typically in Chandigarh or Amritsar.
• Time Taken: Approximately 1 hour 30 minutes

Train ( Delhi to Joginder Nagar or Pathankot )

• Train Name: Shatabdi Express, Himalayan Queen
• Time: Depart from Delhi at around 6:00 AM or 10:00 PM
• Time Taken: Approximately 8-12 hours (depending on the train)

Bus

• Private Bus: Volvo/Deluxe buses are available from various locations in Delhi.
• Local Bus: From Chandigarh to Kheerganga
• Cabs – shared taxis are available.
• Time Taken: Approximately 10-12 hours

2. Accommodation 

 Standard/Budget Hotels

• Options: Guesthouses and lodges (e.g., Kheerganga Homestay)
• Price Range: ₹800 – ₹1500 per night

  Deluxe Hotels

• Options: Mid-range hotels (e.g., Pine View Hotel)
• Price Range: ₹2000 – ₹4000 per night

 Luxury Hotels

• Options: High-end resorts (e.g., Himalayan Spa Resort)
• Price Range: ₹5000 and above per night

3. Places to Eat in Kheerganga

  Vegetarian Restaurants: 

• Kheerganga Cafe
• Shiva Cafe

Non-Vegetarian Restaurants: 

• Kheerganga Local Dhabas

Vegan Restaurants: 

• Most cafes offer vegan options; ask for specific dishes.

4. Local Transport in Kheerganga

Cabs: Local cabs are available for short distances. Negotiation is common.

Buses :Local buses run between Kheerganga and nearby villages, but services  are limited to certain t time windows. One can plan the journey locally a day prio after getting exact information from locals.