Conquering Mount Kilimanjaro: Your Ultimate Guide
Jan 20, 2025
Author: Samiksha Khanduri
Some places demand the courage to be explored, while others invite us to revisit them time and again, leaving behind our footprints. After what felt like an eternity, we finally packed our bags for Tirthan Valley in the first week of June. After boarding an overnight bus to the Aut Tunnel, our gateway to Himachal Pradesh we arrived in Aut on a sun-kissed morning.
Day 1: The Aut market greeted us with its rustic charm of a vibrant tapestry of life, filled with bustling stalls, roadside fruit vendors, and a towering mountain that silently watched over the daily rhythm of the town. Having prearranged a cab to our home for the next six nights the Mudhouse Hostel, we felt the excitement of transitioning from urban life to a raw, rural experience. The drive to Jibhi was filled with anticipation, winding through narrow roads, and as we reached our destination, The Mudhouse Hostel stood before us like a sanctuary. The first glimpse took our breath away; we knew we had found a place where we could truly belong. The soothing sound of the river and the expansive grounds surrounding the hostel made the long journey worthwhile, promising a transformative experience ahead.
We were warmly greeted by our host and manager, who guided us to the dormitories, offering us the delightful choice of selecting our own room. The old-school charm, felt like a recipe for adventure; we sensed this trip would be unforgettable.
As we strolled through the serene surroundings, we found a perfect spot by the river to settle in and soak up the ambiance. The world fell silent except for the mesmerizing rush of the water, creating a peaceful backdrop. After enjoying the tranquility, we headed to the dining area, where open seating awaited us, accompanied by a delightful mix of music that set the tone for our stay.
Lunch set the tone for our day with hearty parathas and steaming hot tea, a perfect fuel for our upcoming adventure. After a satisfying meal, we headed back to our room to gear up for a short hike to the waterfall, just a 15-minute walk from Mudhouse. This serene spot was dedicated to Choi Devta, who, as the guard informed us, is considered the Adam of all gods in Himachal. At the waterfall, we reveled in the refreshing droplets cascading down, taking a moment to appreciate the beauty around us.
Mudhouse embraces the concept of “coming together for dinner,” and we welcomed this opportunity to connect with fellow travelers. Sharing a meal in silence felt profound, as we all bonded over a mutual love for exploration. The home-cooked feast was delightful, with a variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes that truly satisfied our appetites.
Day 2: was dedicated to the perfect Himachali village hike, and Seri village was just a stone’s throw from our hostel. We set off early to beat the sun, beginning our 6 km road hike toward Seri. The ascent offered stunning views of Jibhi in the distance, with distinct trees framing our path. As we walked, we reached a fork in the road—one path led directly to the village, while the other seemed to wander off into the unknown. We quickly found ourselves stepping into the charming village, meandering through narrow trails reminiscent of a quaint European settlement.
I had never encountered a Himalayan village so pristine; it felt almost surreal. The streets were clean, a solitary sheep grazed. Soon we managed to request a local for a hot cup of tea, as we perched on the terrace, we took in the panoramic view of the village, watching as children played their little games in the courtyard below.
After expressing our gratitude for the lady’s warm hospitality, we made our way out of her home and stumbled upon the village temple, which was uniquely dedicated to a well. The temple, built around this sacred well, reflected the villagers’ deep reverence for nature. I couldn’t help but admire the beauty that stemmed from their pantheistic beliefs—there’s something truly magical about those who worship the natural world. It inspired me to consider adopting a similar outlook on life.
Hiking back to the roadhead, we completed our four-hour round trip just in time for lunch at Mudhouse. After freshening up and soaking in the relaxing atmosphere, we decided to explore Jibhi market, which was 15-minute walk away. The market had a charming urban feel, complete with an ATM, a couple of cafés, and all the essentials, including a pharmacy. Our excitement peaked when we spotted a café named Hope Rooftop Café. With high hopes in tow, we ascended the flight of stairs, ready to elevate our experience above the ordinary—both literally and metaphorically.
We settled into the open seating area, eager to indulge in some hot coffee and bruschetta. This café catered to every palate, boasting a diverse menu that reflected the influx of international visitors; they truly had something for everyone. The combination of delicious food, stunning scenery, and heartfelt connections made it an unforgettable experience, marking a perfect end to our day of exploration.
We lingered a bit longer, soaking in the vibrant life around us. Eventually, we made the short 15-minute walk back to the hostel, ready to wind down for the day. Dinner was served in the open dining area, where we noticed more guests arriving, creating a lively atmosphere. Laughter filled the air as some played cards, others engaged in a spirited game of carrom, and a few exchanged musical notes. The energy was infectious, and it felt like a celebration of life in that moment. Each of us found our own way to revel in the joy of togetherness, making it a memorable end to our day.
Day 3: Today we head to Chehni Kothi which houses a landmark traditional mudhouse located in Chehni Kothi village. It was just a 45-minute drive from the Jibhi market, easily accessible by cab or bus to Shringa Rishi Temple.
We decided to go local & hopped on an open camper vehicle whose roof seats were perfect to perch ourselves on top, feeling like kings as we hit the road toward the temple. We got off at the temple road & with not a soul in sight, and we continued on foot until we encountered a man who suggested an alternative route to his village. The trail opened up to broad patches of land, where an odd shepherd confirmed we were on the right track as his sheep roamed freely.
As we arrived, I was struck by the vibrant life within the village courtyard which bustled with people of all ages, and the narrow alleys leading to it resembled the ancient settlements of the Harappan civilization. The distinctive mud houses were alive with beautiful faces peeking from windows and doorways, signaling that we had found something truly extraordinary.
As we pressed on, we encountered a lady who also hosted a tiny shop and we took in the perfect spot to watch a sunset paint the sky. It was a close call, but we made it just in time to witness a breathtaking sunset framed by the towering structure in the courtyard, a view that felt like a hidden gem. While the café lady prepared a comforting maggi meal for us, we felt a deep sense of gratitude just to be there, soaking in the serene ambiance. As we finished our meal and drinks, we returned to the courtyard for one last look at Chehni Kothi. The community thrived in peaceful harmony, each face telling its own story. We settled on benches near two old ladies, guardians of the tower. As dusk approached, we hurried back to the road head to take a taxi back to Jibhi.
Day 4 & 5: Today we planned a trip to Jalori Pass in the morning, as we grabbed some stuffed parathas and boarded the last bus to Jalori. Once we arrived at Jalori Pass, the snowy mountains and lush greenery captivated us, a stark contrast to Jibhi’s serene rivers. Eagerly, we began our hike to Raghupur Fort, aiming to catch yet another sunset. The trek through meadows and narrow forest paths was invigorating, and a helpful shepherd guided us along the way. After 3.5 hours, we reached our isolated camp just in time for sunset. We quickly settled into our tents, layered up against the wind, and rushed to the fort. As we perched on the mountainside, nature unfolded its magic, and we sat in awe of a spellbinding sunset on Raghupur fort.
Watching the sunset from Raghupur Fort was unlike anything I’d experienced before. The sky transformed into a canvas of vibrant oranges and soft purples, colors that felt almost impossible to articulate. As we returned to our tent at dusk a sense of accomplishment washed over me, like I had unlearned the chaos of everyday life. The host of the campsite greeted us with hot tea, and we nestled into our quilts, leaving the tent flap open to gaze up at the stars, embracing the tranquility of the night.
As we nestled into our cozy bedding, I set an alarm for sunrise, eager for what the morning would bring. At 5:45 AM, I woke to a tranquil sunrise, accompanied only by the distant moos of cows and the gentle chirping of waking birds. The world felt like it had paused, free from the rush of daily life. From the host’s kitchen, the Pir Panjal ranges loomed majestically, gradually coming alive with the dawn’s light as I brushed my teeth, a breathtaking sight that promised another beautiful day ahead.
After thanking our host for a packed breakfast, we set off back to the Jalori road head, We opted for the first bus back to the hostel, where the sound of the river below filled the air, stirring a mix of loss and joy within me. I savored my final cup of coffee, then refreshed myself as I began packing our bags. Though we had to check out, we could leave our luggage at the hostel until evening. With our bus scheduled for 9:00 PM from Aut, we still had half a day to enjoy Mudhouse. We strolled through Jibhi and stopped for brunch at Reverberate, a charming café run by a Himachali gentleman. From Shakshuka to a perfect English breakfast, we indulged in every bite before racing back to Mudhouse by noon.
As we walked back, we gathered at the doors of our dorm to continue painting the remaining characters from our night of creativity. We wanted to leave our mark, knowing we had become the longest-standing figures in this space. Jibhi has woven itself into my being, and as I write, I still feel as if I’m nestled within that memory, forever captured in its embrace.
Here’s some important information about Jibhi:
Location
Accessibility
Attractions
Activities
Accommodation
Cuisine
Vegetarian and Vegan-Friendly Restaurants
Non-Vegetarian Restaurants